Sunday, 24 April 2016

Now that spring is here our pace of life is stepping up quickly again. Even though we've been busy cleaning, servicing and packing our camper van for its upcoming lengthy road trip, we've had a few interesting things happen this month and we've been to a few new places as well.  Here's a sampling of what we've been up to during April....

1. Kettle Valley Rail Trail
Early in the month, the weather forecast called for sunny skies and temperatures of 24C in the BC interior. We were eager to take advantage of the beautiful weather and decided to take our Bromptons (UK folding bicycles) out for a spring spin on the Kettle Valley Rail Trail. This section of the Trans-Canada trail is built on the old railbed of the abandoned Kettle Valley Railway. A great feature is the gentle grade which makes it fantastic for easy hiking and biking through spectacular scenery. The best scenery is near Kelowna, along the section through Myra Canyon, which has eighteen trestles and two tunnels spread along a 12km stretch.



Imagine these wooden trestles with a steam train puffing along them...


The view down to the city of Kelowna and Lake Okanagan spread across the valley floor was amazing.


We hoped that by going early in the season we'd avoid the crowds. Unfortunately it turned out that we were a little too early as large parts of the trail were still snow-covered and thus we were only able to do about one-third of the Myra Canyon section before we had to turn back as we were carrying the bikes through knee-deep snow. Just sitting in the mountain air, with warm sun and a bluebird sky overhead wasn't too hard to take though and we hope to maybe return later in the year to complete the rest of the tour.

We weren't the only creatures out enjoying the sunshine that day...



2. Kelowna and Kamloops
After completing our tour of the Kettle Valley Railway we drove through Kelowna and down the west shore of Lake Okanagan through places with such evocative place names as Peachland and Summerland. The fruit trees were in blossom, but, the dozens of fruit stands which lined the highway were, of course, still closed up. Fresh fruit: peaches, cherries, apricots, apples and more will be on sale from June through September and we can hardly wait to return later in the season to sample just-picked, tree-fresh, BC fruit. There are many wineries in this area and the regimented vineyard fields were already turning green.

After the lush and verdant Okanagan Valley we drove the scenic route back to Vancouver along the Fraser River Valley and through the semi-arid, almost desert-like landscape around Kamloops.

For some scale to this picture, look closely at the very long train running along the shoreline of Kamloops Lake...


Closer to Vancouver the agricultural area around Abbotsford was also a visual delight including this colourful tulip field.



3. Canada Over the Edge
Our winter rental apartment included cable tv which we haven't had for years and we watched way too much of it over the winter. Although it was hard to find anything decent on the 100+ plus channels available, we did enjoy the programming on the local public television station, Knowledge TV. In particular, there was a lengthy series running every week called 'Canada Over the Edge'. This was an ambitious, four year undertaking to document, from the air, Canada's borders along all three oceans and our 49th parallel land border with the USA. It was lovingly shot although it has a weird, dream-like, ethereal quality to it as both visuals, narration and background music seem to be in slow-motion. The landscape takes centre stage, but, occasionally there were sections with land-based touring and interviews. Maybe not everyone's cup of tea, but, we enjoyed it. We were most interested in the aerial views of the Arctic coastline having just sailed the entire length of it ourselves. The episode with the section of coastline between Gjoa Haven and Cambridge Bay was beautiful. Of course, there was the usual 'money shot' of a lone sailboat, sailing peacefully across a flat, blue sea with white sails flying. The camera zoomed in a little closer and we thought, wow, that's a really nice-looking boat. It got in a little closer and surprise, it was us in Gjoa! We remember that particular day in 2014 well. It was one of the very, very few where the sun shone and the water was flat, blue and ice-free. We know where they filmed us, but, we had no idea we'd been filmed and don't remember getting buzzed by any planes or helicopters. They must have had a really good zoom lens. Anyway, it was just a brief moment in the episode, but, it did liven up the program for us. The series can be purchased on dvd from:

http://www.canadaovertheedge.com/


4. A Sad Sight
Living right on the water has been a treat, but, some days the sea brings bad news as well as beauty. Walking back to our apartment along the sea wall one morning we came across crime scene tape blocking off the area in front of our building. We detoured around and once inside the apartment had a birds-eye of a body being retrieved from the shoreline by the Vancouver Police marine unit. In this photo, two divers have just entered the water with a floating stretcher.


The divers swam to shore where they respectfully retrieved the body which had washed ashore against a log. The operation was efficient and quickly dealt with. It appeared to be a well-dressed young man. Nothing was mentioned on the evening news as to who it was, or, what happened. It's probably not that unusual an event in a big waterfront city, but, it still brought home how easily life can be taken away.


5. Follow by Email
Some of you may have noticed a new box just above the Profile on the right side column of the blog labelled 'Follow by Email'. If you put your email address in here and click 'Submit' you should automatically receive an email every time there is something new posted on the blog without having to check.

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Sunday, 17 April 2016

The day after our whale watching and hot springs tour, we enjoyed a few more sights around Tofino and Ucluelet before heading back to Vancouver.



An old ice house converted to an oyster bar and restaurant...


Downtown Tofino sculpture...


An early morning walk on Long Beach, Tofino

Surfers heading out on Long Beach.


We hiked the Lighthouse Loop, part of the West Pacific Trail in Ucluelet and had super views of the Broken Islands group.


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Thursday, 14 April 2016

We are in the last few weeks of our winter stay here in Vancouver and will be hitting the road again at the end of April. We'll head first to the Sunshine Coast and then on to Vancouver Island for a few weeks while waiting for the snow to melt up north. However, when we heard that the best time for viewing the Gray Whale migration off the west coast of Vancouver Island was March and April, we decided to make a separate trip just for that even though it might mean covering some of the same ground later. So, we booked ourselves on a Hot Springs and Whale Watching tour and headed off to Tofino at the end of March. We booked well in advance and weren't really hopeful that we'd get a good weather window, but, to our delight, the heavens aligned and our three day trip was spectacularly warm, clear and dry. It felt like summer and conditions were absolutely perfect for heading out on the water.


During the Pacific Gray Whale migration 22,000! whales travel from Mexico along the West Coast of Vancouver Island on the way to their northern summer quarters. We did see about six whales, just a km offshore, but, unfortunately no pictures for you as whales are notoriously hard to photograph. You tend to just see their breath, followed by their back and if you're lucky their tail as they dive. There was other wildlife as well which was more photogenic. The boat skipper took us to places that we'd never have dared to go in our own boat, very close to the rocks, local knowledge at work. It was nice for once to leave the driving to someone else who knew where they were going which allowed us to just enjoy the scenery.

A sea lion colony on the point in the foreground with a cormorant colony on the next point...


We were close enough to hear the sea lions barking...

at least the ones that weren't fast asleep in the warm sunshine...

The highlight of the trip was our visit to Maquinna Provincial Park and the hot springs there. I'd been disappointed with hot spring visits in the past as usually the naturally heated water is just pumped into concrete pools and you get to sit there in a stew with 500 other people. I'd vowed to see the real thing and this time it was. The Maquinna springs are a totally natural hotspring that bubbles out of the ground, down a steaming stream, over a waterfall and into a series of rock basins that drop down to the ocean's edge. It's true that we had to share with others, no avoiding that with many tour companies offering this trip, but, it was still less crowded than in season, we enjoyed a lovely soak and it was hot!

It was a two km walk along a boardwalk through the rain forest to get to the springs. Many passing sailboats and other visitors had left their mark...



This pretty stream is steaming hot....

The hot springs run out through a cleft in the rocks to the ocean...


I don't know where these dogs came from, but, they seemed to be well-looked after locals out for a stroll and were soaking up the sun alongside the bathers. One walked with us along the boardwalk.



We also spotted our first Steller's Jay at the springs. This is BC's official bird and it's a beauty.



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Saturday, 9 April 2016

I don't know about you, but, I really enjoy seeing signs where the message is given with humour, or, wit. It makes being told what to do a little bit more palatable somehow when it puts a smile on your face. I'm also partial to an inventive marketing gimmick and even an occasional typo that results in laughter. Here are a few we've encountered in our travels recently. I hope to add to the collection over time. Hope you enjoy them as much as we did...

A typo in this boat ad made me laugh out loud because it perfectly describes our current lifestyle!
"She has proved an excellent performer in all weather, and a perfect live aboard for extended expiration off the beaten path."

How about this on a portable sign outside a tanning salon in Kelowna:
"White buns only look good on hotdogs"

From Steveston BC:


From Deep Cove BC:


There's a fleet of these cars with an Orca fin on top driving around West Vancouver, I always smile when I see one.


From Bowen Island BC (guess you wouldn't see many places in the world today where tourists are encouraged to hitchhike?):


And last but not least, this sign, which is from near Cranbrook BC. I didn't take the photo, somebody emailed it to me, but, it will be apropos for us as we'll be heading into bear country this summer. The text is long, but, you must read all the way to the end!



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Friday, 1 April 2016

Just fifteen minutes on the local bus and twenty minutes on the ferry dropped us into another world, Bowen Island, a  six km x twelve km slice of island life just three km offshore from Horseshoe Bay in West Vancouver.


It's a tranquil spot, considering its proximity to Vancouver. It was Good Friday, the first sunny, warm day in weeks and we joined the rest of the holidaymakers heading for a quiet atmosphere in which to soak up some rays and enjoy the island's charming ambience. We left on an early ferry, glad we didn't have to join the Easter weekend crush waiting for the Nanaimo ferry.


Historically, Bowen Island was famous in the 1920's as a resort operated by the Union Steamship Company. Steamers delivered hundreds of people from bustling downtown Vancouver to holiday heaven where they could enjoy a dance pavilion big enough for eight hundred dancers, rent holiday cottages, picnic by the water and swim on the many beaches.



A small village-like commercial centre still exists.



Later, after its 1920's heyday, it became an artists' colony described in this quote from Wikipedia:
"In the 1940s and 1950s, the artists' colony called Lieben was a retreat for many famous Canadian authors, artists, and intellectuals including Earle Birney, Alice Munro, Dorothy Livesay, Margaret Laurence, A.J.M. Smith, Jack Shadbolt, Eric Nicol and Malcolm Lowry, who finished his last book, October Ferry to Gabriola, there. "
Today, many of the island residents commute to jobs in Vancouver, but, the charm is still visible in the old buildings. This is the United Church.


We chose to hike the Killarney Lake Loop Trail. It was a nice loop on a beautiful day with a few interesting sights.

The wooden structure shown on the far side of this waterfall is a fish ladder. It helps spawning fish to more easily climb up the waterfall so they can reach their spawning grounds.



Spring marsh flowers were just starting to bloom.


Returning to Horseshoe Bay in late afternoon, we enjoyed the best fish and chips we've ever had, eaten outside on a park bench underneath cherry trees in full blossom. What a day!

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