Friday 28 December 2018

The New Year is always a time for reflection, a look forward and a look back. Last year we started keeping a collection of the witty and/or interesting signs that we came across in our travels during the year. Signs can often be a blight on the landscape, but, they can be entertaining as well. Sometimes, the best ones are seen on-the-go and you can't capture them, but, maybe, you'll still find something in this collection from 2018 that will raise a smile. Happy New Year!

This one was seen in Wales.



It took us a long time to figure out what a 'sticky beak' is. In Australia, it's like a 'nosy parker', or, someone who sticks their nose in where it's not wanted



A few more Australian specimens. The water looked very inviting at this spot, but, this scary sign makes it clear you wouldn't want to go in.



An historical reproduction sign.




Also in Australia, in traffic, we saw a rather politically incorrect bumper sticker: 'this car is made with spanners, not chopsticks'. Hmmm.....

In the UK, signs had a lighter touch. This one has a polite 'sorry' preface. In any other country, it would probably read 'NO CAMPING!'





Only in the UK would you find 'thatcher' as a profession.



Brits also have a unique sense of humour, we laughed at this boat name.



We couldn't figure this one out. What's a 'car trap'? Guess it means 'no entry' for cars.


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Saturday 22 December 2018

We're now back in Two Rocks (near Perth, Western Australia) to resume the cruising life full-time. A year ago we were wondering whether we'd be able to ever resume, so, this chance at a fresh start is very welcome and we're looking forward to it. First, though, as usual, before we can go anywhere the boat needs attention. She was only in the water for five weeks in all of 2018, so, in addition to all the outstanding tasks we had before we stopped, there is the inevitable decline from sitting unused. It didn't look too bad on arrival, the only visible sign of damage was a squashed VHF aerial from the large, heavy (and full of poop) cormorants that like to sit on our mast top and a small window leak.

The local beach, steps from the boat, was still just as wonderful.



At first, the weather was also great. Windy, as usual, but, sunny and around 25C. This summer sun is so strong it feels like a laser beam and burns on contact. The prevailing southerly wind comes direct from Antarctica and it was very welcome to cool things off. A change of wind to the east brought *hot* temperatures. As I write this, three days before Christmas, it is 41C! Humidity is low, so, it isn't as bad as, for example, Malaysia, where the heat had been unbearable, but, it still puts a crimp into things. I don't think we'll be wanting to turn the oven on to cook a traditional Christmas dinner. Boat work has also slowed down.

We're planning to leave here early in the New Year, heading for Hobart, Tasmania. Our preparations have gotten off to a good start. We launched five days after arrival and a few major jobs have already been completed. As mentioned in a previous post, we replaced all standing rigging and changed to a cutter rig in August. Now, it's the sails' turn for a fresh start. We had a new mainsail (with new stackpack), staysail and yankee made by Doyle Sails while we were away. It was a treat to bend them on, nothing like that crispy, new sail feel. As we had also changed the sail configuration, it took a bit of experimentation to get the sheet leads to work, but, all is looking good. Now, we just need to get sailing.



We also took the opportunity to improve the boom preventer system and install a Jordan Series Drogue. The drogue is a safety drag device that, in a storm, is a long line trailed off the stern of the boat. It has cones on it (we have 139) that provide resistance. It works to keep the boat stern-to the waves/wind and slow it down enough to prevent pitchpoling (end-over-ending). We used one in the North Atlantic on our previous boat and feel it's the best storm management solution for us. Hopefully, we won't have any storm conditions, but, heading around the bottom of Tasmania, we will be in the Southern Ocean, a place with a fearsome reputation where anything can happen. The drogue is an all-Dyneema model from Ocean Brake, in the UK. Our previous drogue was all polyester, just too heavy to manage dry and even worse when wet. At 18kg, we were able to carry this drogue in our airline checked baggage.



Also in our checked baggage we carried our new 5kg, three-way hydraulic steering valve. Sourcing it was a saga. There was absolutely nothing to identify it. So, we sent the old one to France, thinking it was a Lecomble & Schmitt valve (we'd found an old invoice onboard from that company). It turned out not to be theirs, so, we had it sent back and went on the hunt. With the help of a UK company (Phoenix Hydraulic Solutions), we found one (and only one) in a Twin Disc (formerly BCS) warehouse in Italy. Obsolete, with no documentation, we grabbed it for the princely sum of £1200. Expensive, yes, but it's always easier to replace like-for-like rather than redesign and install a new system. It's now installed, but, still to be tested. To finish off this round of hydraulic work we need to install our new continuous-running hydraulic pump motor which runs our autopilot systems. G is hard at work on that now.



We've been adding more items to keep our engines (main and generator) happy along the way. We'd previously stocked up on spares, oil/fuel filters, impellers and belts etc. Now we needed a stock of consumables. We need to carry a lot of everything. Note that we purchased Yanmar brand items. Their pricing was in line with the third-party brands and at least this way you know what's compatible and don't have to worry about wrecking two nearly new engines. I'd even rather pay extra if I had to, just to avoid having to look again at researching and comparing oil standard specifications, what a confusing mess that is!



To keep ourselves happy along the way, we've also started food provisioning, $800 so far and we'll need probably as much again before departure. We had a rental car for a week after we first arrived, but, now, it will be shopping by bus. So, the push is on as our departure date rapidly approaches. We just had a perfect weather window for leaving, hopefully another one will arrive to align with our projected dates.
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Friday 7 December 2018

We're closing another chapter in our travels and are leaving the UK for a while to resume the cruising life full-time. So, you won't be seeing any more medieval-era pictures for some time to come.  Dunster, Somerset is a fine place to end this chapter of our journey. It's a medieval village, located within the boundaries of Exmoor National Park. It has lots to recommend it for a day trip. In addition to Dunster Castle, it has a medieval dovecote, tithe barn and yarn market among other attractions. Unfortunately, our luck with the fine autumn weather ran out and it was a grey, murky day for our visit, not great for photos, but, we enjoyed the visit very much, in spite of the weather.

The village was built around Dunster Castle which was built shortly after the Norman Conquest of 1066 (it's mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1086). Of course, there have been many renovations over the centuries and today the Castle looks like this, mostly the result of Luttrell family occupation from the 14th to 20th century.



Due to the weather, visitors were sparse, just the way we like it and we did a quick tour of the village sites. The castle sits atop a 200 foot hill and it's a steep climb up. Today, it looks to be in fine shape and it is open to the public although we didn't go in. The daylight was short and we had a country walk in mind.We descended back down to the village and visited a welcoming tearoom for a hot cuppa and light lunch before heading out on our walk.

This was a short circular walk, only about five miles, but, it was straight uphill for about 700 feet (213 metres) for the first half to the top of the hill, which took a while and then straight down again. We went off behind the castle and skirted through a deer park around the lower slopes of Gallox Hill before heading up a steeper incline. We were heading ultimately for the ruins of an Iron Age hill fort at the top, known as Bat's Castle.

Once at the top, the views would have been spectacular, over the castle and village and across to the Bristol Channel and beyond. It was quite misty though and most of the view had to be imagined rather than experienced. At the top, it was a typical Exmoor landscape with low-lying gorse bushes spread across open heathland. The damp wind was up and blowing strongly, very atmospheric. The ruins of the hill fort's ramparts and ditches were clearly obvious. It was also prime country for wildlife viewing. Deer were there, but, camera-shy and we only got a glimpse.



More friendly were a group of wild Exmoor ponies. We sat with them for a while and enjoyed a flask of tea before heading back down.



Here's a mum with two photogenic foals.


The way down wasn't that obvious and at one point we took a wrong turn for about half an hour and had to climb back up again to resume the right path. Daylight was waning quickly and we got back to the village only just before dark and in time to catch our bus/train back to Bristol. Travelling back, in the dark, with rain lashing the windows of an overheated bus gave us time to reflect on this bittersweet ending to our time here. We've enjoyed it very much.

Now, another chapter in our travels is starting. As you're reading this, we've just arrived back in Perth, Western Australia and are back aboard Gjoa. Summer is just starting here and we're expecting temperatures in the 30's. We won't be doing much walking in that kind of heat! More to come...


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