The highlight of our recent visit to Tasmania was to complete a bush walk, the Overland Track and we did it, sixty-five kilometres in six days!
We had to book the walk months in advance as they limit the walkers allowed onto the trail each day. When we booked we weren't even sure we would make it to Tassie in time as sailboat travel can be unpredictable, but, luckily we did and all the advance logistical planning paid off. It's not an easy place to get to. The walk is done one-way, in season and we had to start at Cradle Mountain and finish at Lake St. Clair. The track traverses an alpine area in the northwest area of the state. There were many buses to book, a ferry and hotels for the start and finish dates. Walk fees were also quite expensive, $200 each and another $30 each for park passes.
It was tough and the weather was wet and miserable. At least it wasn't snowing which it was the week before we walked it and it wasn't too hot, the week following us had temperatures into the 30's. Looking on the bright side, all the rain we had showed the rain forest to its best advantage and the waterfalls and creeks were in full flow. We carried all our food, clothing, supplies, tent, sleeping bags, cookstove and fuel in our backpacks. There are huts available on the track, but, you're not guaranteed a bed, so still have to carry a tent. Luckily, due to the strict access restrictions, we were able to get a bed in a hut for each night, a relief to be able to dry out in readiness for the next day. The huts sleep 20-35 people and are just basic dormitories. Each hiker is carrying 15-25 kgs each of gear, so, it does become bedlam when everyone is trying to pack up in the morning.
The first and third days were very hard, the other days were easier, but, not easy. The first day we had to get to the track from Launceston, then walk 10.7 km. It also had the most elevation and was almost vertical in places. Near the top there were chains to assist in your passage up and over the sharp rock. We were rewarded at the top with spectacular views of Cradle Mountain, Crater and Dove Lakes. The walk down to Waterfall Valley was almost as difficult as the up. On arrival at the hut, we were really wondering whether we'd taken on too much, but, we knew the worst was over, or, so we thought at the time.
Day 2 was only 7.8 km, Waterfall Valley to Lake Windermere. An introduction to the varied terrain on the walk. Many sections with wet and slippery tree roots, long sections walking through sharp rock falls and other rocky areas that were like walking through a dry riverbed, lots of mud, many puddles and running water. This was interspersed with sections of man-made boardwalk over the marshy bits and often wooden steps. It definitely wasn't a 'walk in the park'.
Day 3 was very tough, the longest day's distance, 16.8 km with a very long, steady climb at the end. Once we arrived at the Pelion hut, we had a spectacular view across the buttongrass meadow to Mt. Oakleigh.
Day 4, just 9 km, but, a 300m climb over 4 km, to Pelion Gap. Here, we should have been able to see Mt. Ossa, Australia's highest peak, but, a dense, grey mist enshrouded the mountain tops and we only saw brief glimpses.
Day 5, 9.6 km, the coldest day and we were wet through at the end of day. Glad to arrive at Bert Nichols hut. As the days passed, you tended to end up with the same people in the huts each night. It became quite a convivial atmosphere and we met other tourists from the Netherlands, Italy and France. Many locals were also on the track. We met up with one friendly Australian group: Phil, Sophie, Mel and Abby. They really made our trip. On the second night out, when they learned it was our wedding anniversary (46!), they presented us with a camper's dehydrated apple pie to celebrate. I know this doesn't sound like much, but, it was delicious and very welcome. To give up food rations you've carried a long way was really something special. Maybe they also took pity on the two oldest people on the track that week.
Day 6, 9 km and mostly flat terrain. Our legs were tired, but, we had to make our ferry booking at the Narcissus hut which would take us to Cynthia Bay, the Lake St. Clair visitor centre and the end of the track. The morning was misty, beautiful and the sun came out, finally.
This is the end of the track, at Lake St. Clair, the deepest lake in Australia.
The last day was the only sunny one of the entire week. We were exhausted, but, elated, we can't believe we actually finished it. We were able to soak up some sun and bask in our accomplishment while waiting for the bus which would take us back to Hobart. We also managed a burger, chips and ice cream, who cares about fat and calories at a time like this!
We encountered some wildlife along the way, many cute wallabies.
We saw our first wombat.
Unfortunately, there were not many birds, but, we did see our first currawong. These birds are incredibly intelligent and can open zips on backpacks to find and remove snacks!
We had to book the walk months in advance as they limit the walkers allowed onto the trail each day. When we booked we weren't even sure we would make it to Tassie in time as sailboat travel can be unpredictable, but, luckily we did and all the advance logistical planning paid off. It's not an easy place to get to. The walk is done one-way, in season and we had to start at Cradle Mountain and finish at Lake St. Clair. The track traverses an alpine area in the northwest area of the state. There were many buses to book, a ferry and hotels for the start and finish dates. Walk fees were also quite expensive, $200 each and another $30 each for park passes.
It was tough and the weather was wet and miserable. At least it wasn't snowing which it was the week before we walked it and it wasn't too hot, the week following us had temperatures into the 30's. Looking on the bright side, all the rain we had showed the rain forest to its best advantage and the waterfalls and creeks were in full flow. We carried all our food, clothing, supplies, tent, sleeping bags, cookstove and fuel in our backpacks. There are huts available on the track, but, you're not guaranteed a bed, so still have to carry a tent. Luckily, due to the strict access restrictions, we were able to get a bed in a hut for each night, a relief to be able to dry out in readiness for the next day. The huts sleep 20-35 people and are just basic dormitories. Each hiker is carrying 15-25 kgs each of gear, so, it does become bedlam when everyone is trying to pack up in the morning.
The first and third days were very hard, the other days were easier, but, not easy. The first day we had to get to the track from Launceston, then walk 10.7 km. It also had the most elevation and was almost vertical in places. Near the top there were chains to assist in your passage up and over the sharp rock. We were rewarded at the top with spectacular views of Cradle Mountain, Crater and Dove Lakes. The walk down to Waterfall Valley was almost as difficult as the up. On arrival at the hut, we were really wondering whether we'd taken on too much, but, we knew the worst was over, or, so we thought at the time.
Day 2 was only 7.8 km, Waterfall Valley to Lake Windermere. An introduction to the varied terrain on the walk. Many sections with wet and slippery tree roots, long sections walking through sharp rock falls and other rocky areas that were like walking through a dry riverbed, lots of mud, many puddles and running water. This was interspersed with sections of man-made boardwalk over the marshy bits and often wooden steps. It definitely wasn't a 'walk in the park'.
Day 3 was very tough, the longest day's distance, 16.8 km with a very long, steady climb at the end. Once we arrived at the Pelion hut, we had a spectacular view across the buttongrass meadow to Mt. Oakleigh.
Day 4, just 9 km, but, a 300m climb over 4 km, to Pelion Gap. Here, we should have been able to see Mt. Ossa, Australia's highest peak, but, a dense, grey mist enshrouded the mountain tops and we only saw brief glimpses.
Day 5, 9.6 km, the coldest day and we were wet through at the end of day. Glad to arrive at Bert Nichols hut. As the days passed, you tended to end up with the same people in the huts each night. It became quite a convivial atmosphere and we met other tourists from the Netherlands, Italy and France. Many locals were also on the track. We met up with one friendly Australian group: Phil, Sophie, Mel and Abby. They really made our trip. On the second night out, when they learned it was our wedding anniversary (46!), they presented us with a camper's dehydrated apple pie to celebrate. I know this doesn't sound like much, but, it was delicious and very welcome. To give up food rations you've carried a long way was really something special. Maybe they also took pity on the two oldest people on the track that week.
Day 6, 9 km and mostly flat terrain. Our legs were tired, but, we had to make our ferry booking at the Narcissus hut which would take us to Cynthia Bay, the Lake St. Clair visitor centre and the end of the track. The morning was misty, beautiful and the sun came out, finally.
This is the end of the track, at Lake St. Clair, the deepest lake in Australia.
The last day was the only sunny one of the entire week. We were exhausted, but, elated, we can't believe we actually finished it. We were able to soak up some sun and bask in our accomplishment while waiting for the bus which would take us back to Hobart. We also managed a burger, chips and ice cream, who cares about fat and calories at a time like this!
We encountered some wildlife along the way, many cute wallabies.
We saw our first wombat.
Unfortunately, there were not many birds, but, we did see our first currawong. These birds are incredibly intelligent and can open zips on backpacks to find and remove snacks!
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