End of July

We had a ferry appointment in Prince Rupert for July 22, so, sadly bid a quick farewell to Yukon and started to make our way south again. Although we'd driven the Cassiar Highway before, there were two intriguing end-of-road side trips that we wanted to do. Are we ever glad we didn't miss the long trek in/out of Telegraph Creek and Stewart/Hyder. Both side trips were equally spectacular, but, for different reasons. The road into Telegraph Creek was less travelled and gave us the opportunity for a special wildlife viewing of this wonderful lynx, not something you see everyday!

Telegraph Creek was the farthest navigable point on the Stikine River. Gold-seekers started in Wrangell, Alaska and could make it all the way to Telegraph Creek by steamer and then join a land route to the goldfields from there. There is an Indian village with modern housing when you get 120 km to the end of the road. There's not much left to see of the historical Gold Rush town and what is there is mostly derelict. 

The road in was one of the most challenging we've been on. It hugged the Stikine River and passes through an area known as the Grand Canyon of the Stikine River. They don't call it the Stikine Grand Canyon for nothing. There were spectacular views like at the 'other' Grand Canyon, but, this one also comes with some white knuckle driving consisting of: potholed and loose gravel, steep switchbacks and grades, no guardrails and single lane in places. At one point we were driving along a ledge that had been cut into the side of the canyon wall. I found it hard to look over the edge. G was driving and remained cool, calm and collected. The photo below was one of the easy bits, hence the photo. During the tricky bits my hands were firmly gripping the seat, not the camera!

After driving back out 120 km to the main highway we headed a few miles south to the turnoff for Stewart BC and Hyder AK. Both these communities sit beside each other at the head of the Portland Canal, a narrow salt water fjord approximately 145 km long that leads out to the Pacific. The Portland Canal marks the border between the US and Canada. The road itself wasn't as dramatic as that into Telegraph Creek, but, it was wonderfully scenic nonetheless, with some of the best mountain and glacier views we've seen. The town of Stewart is in British Columbia. Hyder, just around the head of the canal, is in Alaska. Hyder is peculiarly isolated with no way out except through Canada, so, when you cross the border to Hyder there are no US officials. Coming back into Canada, there are the usual border crossing procedures. We took in the highlights of both towns which included a drive up a long gravel back road to the Salmon Glacier. You can drive your car right to a viewpoint where you are rewarded with this view.

Before going up to the glacier, we stopped in early (6 a.m.) at the Fish Creek Observation area with the hope of seeing some bears. We thought it unlikely at this time of year, but, the salmon were just starting to run and we were rewarded with views of a bear splashing around and picking up fish. Later in the season there will be many bears, both black and brown (grizzly) fishing at this location.