Tuesday 20 February 2018

We're back in Australia for a few weeks to try and make a start on our long to-do list on Gjoa. We landed at Perth to be greeted with a hot, white sun and a scorching blast of 38C heat, it was a shock. It's moderated somewhat now. We're down to 28C, much better.

We picked up the van from long-term storage and headed north to Carnarvon, a two-day drive. Now that it's summer here, it looked a little greener than when we left, but, the farm fields that are in the south soon give way to the scrubby, red, dry, desert-like landscape further north.We have a/c in the van which makes the drive bearable. The road seems endless and the only thing that breaks the monotony is trying to avoid all the dead kangaroos on the road. We never see any live kangaroos, only dead ones, in great numbers, young ones and old ones. It's very sad and quite distressing to see such carnage, they are such beautiful animals. There are a number of feral goats that seem to thrive in this landscape, but, they seem to be more vehicle and road-aware as we've only ever seen a couple of dead ones. The other thing to avoid are the 'road trains'. Think a normal tractor-trailer size vehicle (HGV lorry) and then add another two trailers onto the back of it. These behemoths can be up to about 40 meters long and they barrel along at full tilt. Sometimes there's no shoulder on the road and it can be 'interesting' when you encounter one coming the other way.

As we're only here for a few weeks, we'll be staying 'on the hard' and not going back into the water until next time. Life on the hard, in a boatyard, is definitely 'hard'. Everything, including us, has to go up and down a long ladder. There's no water, or, operating toilet aboard. The boat is absolutely filthy, covered inside and out in dirt and sanding dust. The wind has been blowing strongly and incessantly for weeks. It picks up the sand, whips it around and deposits it into every nook and cranny. We are surrounded by multiple commercial boats being sanded, painted and fibreglassed and the particles and smells all seem to be blowing our way. At night, it sounds like we're sleeping in a gale and even though you know you can't drag anchor, it still makes for a sometimes unsettled sleep when there is occasional vibration from a wind gust. This is the view from the deck of the boat, we're directly open to the sea breeze, it's been this windy since we arrived.


Despite the hardships, we're glad to be here to finally start executing some of the jobs we have been thinking about and planning while we were away. For this trip, we plan to pull the prop shaft and replace the cutless bearing. This is not as easy as it sounds. Hopefully, the shaft and/or its tube have not been damaged by the loud grinding and clunking noises we were hearing on the way in here.

Next up is to take out the hydraulic ram (the thing that moves the boat's rudder) and hydraulic autopilot pump to have them both rebuilt. Hopefully, this will fix our autopilot problems. This is also not as easy as it sounds. The hydraulic pump is buried in the bowels of the engine room and will require some real estate reconfiguration and engine room yoga to get it out.

A stretch goal is to install our new Racor fuel filtration system that we brought with us from the UK. We will be replacing the old, original Separ system which wasn't working too well for us with all the fuel problems we had on the way down from Malaysia.

After the work, we hope to have enough time to do a mini road trip around the Perth area. We'd like to have gone further north, but, this isn't the right time of year. A lot of the roads are currently flooded around Broome due to the landfall of cyclone Kelvin this week. After the road trip, we'll head back to the UK, hopefully just in time to enjoy some bluebell walks in the woods around Bristol and further afield. There's nothing quite like spring in the UK, it's glorious.
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Monday 12 February 2018

On a recent cold and rainy Sunday afternoon, we decided to visit 'M Shed', Bristol's museum located on Prince's Wharf beside the Floating Harbour. It was the start of half-term and very busy, but, the displays were well done and interesting. One of the displays indicated that Bristol was the home of the world's first mass-produced chocolate bar.

In 1847, Joseph Fry discovered a way to mix the ingredients of cocoa powder, sugar and cocoa to manufacture a paste that could then be molded into a bar suitable for mass production. In 1866, in Union Street, Bristol, Fry's started producing Fry's 'Chocolate Cream'. It was followed, in 1914, by Fry's 'Turkish Delight' and then in 1929, by Fry's 'Crunchie' bar. All three are still made and enjoyed today.



This link to a Bristol 'first' was intriguing and got me thinking about other Bristolian references in the lexicon. Here are a few that immediately came to mind.


Harvey's Bristol Cream
John Harvey & Sons was a wine and sherry blending business started by John Harvey in Bristol in 1796. In the 1860's the business blended the first dessert sherry and dubbed it 'Bristol Milk' which was later changed to 'Bristol Cream'. The formula has changed little since then.



For more interesting detail on sherry in general and how Bristol 'milk' became Bristol 'cream' read more at https://www.sherrynotes.com/2016/reviews/cream-sherry/harveys-bristol-cream/ (that blog entry is also the source for the two  Harvey photos shown here).




Bristol Blue Glass
Bristol Blue Glass was made in Bristol in the late eighteenth century and was very popular. At one point there were seventeen glass houses in the city. It fell out of favour and production ended in the 1920's. In 1988, the tradition was resurrected by Original Bristol Blue Glass Ltd. They sell their products online. You can also visit their studio/retail shop to watch them hand-blowing the glass in the traditional manner and even try your own hand at it. Since the 1990's Harvey's Bristol Cream has been sold in bottles made of Bristol blue. It's very lovely, but, unfortunately when you live like nomads as we do there's no room to accumulate 'stuff' no matter how lovely it is, so, we just look, admire, but cannot buy.



Bristol Condition
When purchasing a boat, it is always advisable to get a yacht survey. The surveyor usually rates the boat as to general overall condition on a scale from "Restorable" to "Bristol" which is a vessel maintained in mint or Bristol fashion i.e. usually better than factory new and loaded with extras. Not many boats get this rating!

Here are the categories:

“Excellent (Bristol) Condition” is a vessel that is maintained in mint or Bristol fashion – usually better than factory new - loaded with extras – a rarity

“Above Average Condition” has had above average care and is equipped with extra electrical and electronic gear.

“Average Condition” is ready for sale requiring no additional work and normally equipped for her size.

“Fair Condition” requires usual maintenance to prepare for sale.

“Poor Condition” substantial yard work is required and devoid of extras.

“Restorable Condition” enough of the hull and engine exists to restore the boat to useable condition.


Shipshape and Bristol Fashion
A boat with a general overall rating of 'Bristol' means it has been maintained in Bristol 'fashion' and is shipshape. It is thought that this term has a historical meaning that goes back to Bristol's early days as a port. Prior to 1809,  when the 'Floating Harbour' was opened (locks were added to a tidal stretch of the River Avon and a tidal bypass created to hold the water at a constant level regardless of the tide) cargo ships would get dried out on the mud banks at low tide. Many would be left leaning at precarious angles. If the cargo was not stowed away tidily or tied down i.e. 'shipshape and Bristol fashion' the cargo could shift and get damaged making it difficult to unload.


Other Bristol factoids
Long term residents of Bristol are known as 'Bristolians'.

There are a number of Canadian connections to Bristol:

Fishermen from Bristol, who had fished the Grand Banks of Newfoundland since the 15th century, began settling Newfoundland permanently in larger numbers during the 17th century, establishing colonies at Bristol's Hope and Cuper's Cove.

John Cabot departed from Bristol on his 1497 voyage to North America in the 'Matthew'.  The voyage was funded by the 'Bristol Society of Merchant Venturers'. There is a replica of the 'Matthew' in the harbour today with dedicated volunteers showing it to visitors.



In 1897, to celebrate the four hundred year anniversary of Cabot's voyage, a landmark tower was built. Cabot Tower is open to the public and you can climb to the top for a wonderful view over the city.




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Monday 5 February 2018

Isambard Kingdom Brunel. An unusual name and one that is associated with some of Bristol's finest landmarks. To quote from his wikipedia entry :
Isambard Kingdom Brunel (9 April 1806 – 15 September 1859), was an English mechanical and civil engineer who is considered "one of the most ingenious and prolific figures in engineering history",[1] "one of the 19th century engineering giants",[2] and "one of the greatest figures of the Industrial Revolution, [who] changed the face of the English landscape with his groundbreaking designs and ingenious constructions".[3] Brunel built dockyards, the Great Western Railway, a series of steamships including the first propeller-driven transatlantic steamship, and numerous important bridges and tunnels. His designs revolutionised public transport and modern engineering.
This photo of him, with the stovepipe hat, large cigar and mud on his trousers is wonderfully evocative of the brilliant, driven man he must have been.

(By Robert Howlett - en.wikipedia, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=937183)

In a 2002 public television poll conducted by the BBC to select the 100 Greatest Britons, Brunel came in second, only behind Winston Churchill.

Three of Brunel's greatest achievements can be seen in Bristol. The Clifton Suspension Bridge is a Bristol icon and still very much in use.




We walked across the bridge on a gorgeous, crisp, blue-sky day to enjoy this great view of the Avon River gorge below.


In 1833, Brunel was appointed chief engineer of the Great Western Railway, one of the wonders of Victorian Britain, running from London Paddington to Bristol. Not only did Brunel design the railway, but, the stations at both ends. Its Bristol terminus was the Bristol Temple Meads railway station, opened in 1840, another Bristol icon. Still functional today, but, also beautiful.



Wonderful Victorian detailing is still in evidence.

As if bridges, tunnels and railways were not enough Brunel was also involved in transatlantic shipping. He proved the viability of steam powered ships that could cross the Atlantic with the construction of the "Great Western". This boat had steam-powered paddlewheels along with four masts. At the time, it was the longest ship in the world at 236 ft (72 m) with a 250-foot (76 m) keel. Following on from that success, he designed the 322 feet (98m) long "SS Great Britain" . Launched in 1843, it was the world's first iron-hulled, propeller-driven ship to cross the Atlantic Ocean.

Today, the "SS Great Britain" is fully preserved and open to the public in dry dock at Bristol's Floating Harbour. We have yet to visit, but, intend to soon.




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