A Whale Shark Swim

We're in Oz for a while, back aboard Gjoa at the boatyard in Carnarvon. We were quickly able to get the various jobs done to enable a quick refloating and had hoped to have splashed-down and been on our way to Perth by now. Unfortunately, we've become prisoners, doing hard time 'on the hard' and won't be going back in anytime soon! We were very grateful to have found a boatyard here that could haul us out when we really needed it. However, it's a small operation and there are two problems. The owner has just had a knee replacement and cannot operate the loader. Also, there's only one 'jinker' (flat bed trailer) onsite. This is what we need to use to get back into the water. It is currently occupied with a catamaran sitting on it waiting for new engines. They are currently three weeks behind schedule and we have to wait for them to be done and back in before we can have our turn. So, we wait.

Although we still have lots more boat jobs to occupy us while we wait, the critical ones have been done. This allowed us to take advantage of the lovely 'winter' weather here now (lots of sun, low humidity, little wind and 'cooler' temps i.e. in the 20's) to enjoy two days away from the boat. We headed north, back to Exmouth, where the whale shark season is just starting. We had been disappointed to be in Exmouth at the wrong time of year when we spent a few weeks there last October, for either humpbacks, or, whale sharks, both of which congregate there in great numbers. So, we jumped at the opportunity to take a break with an organized Whale Shark swim on the
Ningaloo Reef, a World Heritage Site.

There are nine companies operating 'swims' in the area. We chose Ningaloo Discovery because they were the only ones that operate a sailing catamaran. It's an expensive day trip, but, given the level of infrastructure and staff required you can see where the money goes. First, they have to find the whale sharks (chartered aircraft spotters are used), then, the boat crew works to line up the boat with a shark (a spotter has to be in the water to see which way it's going and then hand signals are given back to the boat). Then two groups of ten snorkellers (only ten are allowed into the water on each swim) have to be alternated quickly into and out of the water and going in the right direction to avoid getting in the shark's way.  There's also a professional photographer in the water. It was quite the experience, but, well managed and of course being up close and personal with these massive creatures was really something very special.

It's a bit daunting on the first swim, we did six in total, when the shark looks like it's coming right for you with that huge mouth. Luckily, they filter-feed almost exclusively on plankton and not on humans!

I (in the yellow mask) was surprised at how easily I could keep up with the shark (they're very slow swimmers and just seem to glide effortlessly through the water). On about the fourth swim, it seemed quite easy to stay alongside. The first few swims were spent trying to stay away from other swimmers and their bubbles, but, by the last swim, the sixth, most swimmers had dropped out and it felt like it was just me and the fish, amazing.

It was fascinating to watch the entourage that came along with the shark, both underneath, presumed cleaner fish, or, maybe they were just enjoying the draft and the smaller ones both around the head and even inside the gaping mouth!

After doing a morning snorkel, then, six swims with the sharks, we were all ravenous. There was lots of great food served and then we had some other activities to keep us entertained. The cargo net diving was fun. This is Laura, one of the talented marine biologists onboard.

My entry was a little more sedate, but, I got in there nonetheless.

Although we didn't participate in the 'whale shark pose' the smiles say it all. It was a great day out both on and in the water.

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A weekend visit to Manchester

Manchester may not be a dream destination for many, unless you're a football fan, as, of course, it's home to two world-famous teams, Manchester United and Manchester City. We didn't have any interest in visiting the National Football Museum, so, we didn't know what to expect when we ended up there for a weekend away to see very long-standing friends visiting from Canada. They were visiting their son who attended uni in Manchester and has now settled in the city. We hadn't seen him since he was about ten, when he appeared very studious. After receiving multiple degrees in mechanical engineering, he has now made the switch to software engineering, the place to be these days. Having his insider knowledge got us to places we never would have known about, like Heaton Park, a 600 acre municipal park jewel located in the Prestwich suburb of the city. It's the largest municipal park in Europe. After walking the dogs in the park (a 'puggle' pug/beagle and a French bulldog) we walked to a very hidden-away pub, The Church Inn . It didn't seem to have road access, but, I'm sure it must. Not a fancy place, but, we enjoyed a traditional, three-course Sunday roast beef lunch with all the trimmings for only £11.95 including an excellent Sticky Toffee Pudding for afters.
We strolled in the adjacent churchyard after lunch. It was a sunny stroll with bluebells, a babbling brook and some very ancient headstones to look at. It doesn't get much better for a Sunday afternoon.

The next day, we explored Manchester on our own. Like many British cities, it is a blend of very old and very modern architecture. It's the third largest metropolitan economy in England.

This building seemed an improbable shape and it dominated the skyline.

There were also the more reassuring shapes of old buildings as well. We got this photo early in the morning, before this pub was packed to overflowing with drinkers enjoying the sunny day.

It was another gorgeous blue-sky and spring blossom day.

This restaurant's floral doorway turned out to be made of plastic flowers, but, it was so realistic I had to get really close to tell, it was lovely and very inviting.

On our day tour, there were two things that really appealed to us. First, was the Castlefield area of the city (not the new 'docks' area which gets all the hype), but, the area which has the old canals and docks. Did you know you can get from Manchester to the Irish sea via the Manchester Ship Canal.  Today, there are commercial cruises available that follow this historic route including through the Barton Swing Aqueduct, another Victorian feat of engineering, it's the only one in the world. Narrowboats and broad-beam barges cross over the top, large vessels pass underneath.

There were many places along the canal to get out of the noon sun and admire more traditional architecture.

We ended up at one of the tram stations with another picturesque view.

Hopping the electric tram (reminiscent of Toronto streetcars) back into the city, we visited the other highlight of our visit, the interactive Museum of Science and Industry. Manchester used to be the textiles powerhouse of the world and was known as Cottonopolis. This history was excellently demonstrated with a working factory area showing just how dangerous, noisy and dirty working with cotton had been.

In another building were the old engines and train displays. Some of them were like works of art.

This massive governor on a diesel engine was a sight to behold.

They did have a demonstration diesel engine which they fired up. It was very interesting to really see, in a simple way, how a diesel engine actually works. It required lots of fine-tuning to get it to run properly without exploding its piston!

There were some amazing steam engines there as well. This one was absolutely huge, very long. The wooden wheel had many belt takeoffs on it and it probably ran an entire factory.

All in all, very fascinating and a good couple of days away.

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