A Big White getaway

This second winter on a boat in BC hasn't been quite as easy as our first winter. Last year, in Victoria, we had just one dump of wet snow in February that was completely gone in about three days. This year, in Port Alberni, there was a nasty, almost record-setting weeks-long cold spell over the Christmas period with lots of ice and snow. Temperatures hit -16C, the record December low for Port Alberni is -17.4C, set in 1950 (average low is +0.4C), so, very close to the all-time record. The boat is not insulated, so, we could definitely feel a chill right through the thin fibreglass hull, although it wasn't that bad with our diesel stove, an electric top-up space heater and our quality down duvets. A skin of ice formed around the boat. It was thin so there was no risk to the boat and it was fun to watch the ducks slipping and sliding trying to figure it out. It was when the pipes froze in the marina buildings that we started to wonder how bad it would get. We had no water for over two weeks as they had to wait for a thaw before they could fix things. The weather slowly improved through January and we made a quick trip to Vancouver (only four hours by road/ferry) to combine a few nights hotel stay with shopping for the upcoming house build. It was a nice break that came with an unlikely Vancouver snow storm, bad weather seemed to be following us! At least the water stayed on in the hotel.

February arrived, nothing was happening with the house build, weather was warmer, but, damp, foggy days were the norm and we needed a break. A warm-weather destination appealed, but, with covid restrictions still in place, we didn't want to leave the country. We decided, after a six year absence, to go downhill skiing!

We chose Big White resort in Kelowna BC. We booked just a couple of days ahead and were surprised to see there was still some availability and reasonable accommodation prices (at the budget end anyway). Of course, accommodation is only a small part of a ski vacation cost. Equipment rentals and lift tickets tripled the accommodation cost. 

We had doubts that we'd have the stamina to get our money's worth from the lift tickets, but, it was a great trip. Our aging legs and knees held up ok and it felt amazing to be outdoors in a beautiful mountain environment. The weather was perfect: warm, brilliantly sunny with lots of blinding-white snow. The base was 167 cm which the locals said was less than half what it is normally. There seemed plenty to us, enough to make a good cushion after we took a few tumbles due to our rusty technique. By the third day we were improving, but, unfortunately it was time to leave. We enjoyed it so much we have plans to return next year. 

We liked Big White a lot. Our room in the centre of the village had a sunny aspect, a great mountain view and a lift about 30m from the front door. 

It was also a short stroll to some very nice restaurants.

The village is not too big, mostly traffic-free and is all ski-in/ski-out. There were no long lift lines. The terrain has something for all skiers. After our long absence from skiing, we felt like beginners again, but, there were plenty of green (easy) runs to keep us occupied. Unlike other resorts where the easy runs are only at lower elevations, at Big White, you can get all the way to the summit on multiple long, easy runs. 

An added bonus to our time away was that on our return to the Island it seemed like spring had sprung in our brief absence. When we left, Mt. Arrowsmith was still snow-covered. On our return there was absolutely no snow anywhere at street level. Things looked very green with nascent buds on the trees. Port Alberni greeted us with spring-like temperatures, +11C and clear sunshine. Not bad for mid-February in Canada!

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Port Alberni - Our new home base

So, how did two non-fishers end up choosing Port Alberni, BC, "Canada's ultimate fishing town", as their new home base?

Well, it had a lot to do with geography. As seen on the map, it looks very far inland. However, it is directly linked to the Pacific Ocean, via the very beautiful 25 mile/40 km. Alberni Inlet (fjord). It's a deep water port, accessible by large, ocean-going cargo ships. For pleasure boats like ours, it provides direct access to the incredible cruising ground of the wild, west coast of Vancouver Island. The city is located almost in the centre of Vancouver Island, central to everything: approx. one hour west to Tofino/Ucluelet (incredible surf beaches and Pacific Rim National Park), one hour north to Mt. Washington ski area and Strathcona Provincial Park, one hour south to Nanaimo (all the shops you could want and the ferry to Vancouver) and 2-1/2 hours to Victoria, the provincial capital with all city amenities in a beautiful location. Officially a City, Port Alberni is part of the Alberni-Clayoquot Region. There are only about 18,000 residents. It's not a large place, but, definitely poised for growth.

The geography was great, the City itself not so much. In the 1960's Port Alberni actually had the highest per capita income in Canada. It was two towns originally, Alberni and Port Alberni, amalgamated into one. This bifurcation is still very apparent and works against the town. The older, 'uptown' half in which we will be building a house used to be the commercial hub. Banks, restaurants, shops and government offices thrived here. Now, a lot of the shops are deserted. Stop work orders are plastered on doorfronts of decaying buildings. Commerce has mostly moved to the other half of town where the new strip malls, fast food restaurants and big box stores are located. The two halves are divided by an industrial centre, three large paper mill sites with hulking buildings that block access to and views of the waterfront. Walking between the two halves is only possible via a very busy, unattractive road. A lot of the existing housing is very old and poorly built. Sounds horrible, doesn't it, especially when compared with the multiple retirement and tourist havens that dot the entire east coast of Vancouver Island (Parksville, Qualicum Beach, Ladysmith etc.) 

We wouldn't be settling in Port Alberni if it didn't at least have potential and lots of it. The signs are everywhere. Now, after living here a while we are confident we have made a good choice. There's a small regional hospital, extensive recreation facilities and other hidden gems that have become apparent only after being here a while. Like, a few good restaurants and bakeries, with more opening soon. There's also an incredible network of easily accessible, extensive walking trails that thread through the entire city. 

The immediate surrounding area has lots to offer as well, the Alberni Inlet (which we wrote about during a brief visit in 2016, Barkley Sound) is amazing for both boating and hiking. A little further out is McLean Mill (a national historic site) and Stamp River (a major spawning salmon stream) Provincial Park. Nearby are two large freshwater lakes: Sproat Lake and Great Central Lake offering freshwater swimming beaches and boating opportunities.

The three (there is a fourth smaller, plywood mill on the southern boundary) dominant mill sites are also changing. The San Group has installed a large, landscaped berm with trees which improves the view along their stretch of road between the city's two halves. The Catalyst mill looks like it's thriving and in good, working order. The third mill site, the 43 acre former Somass Sawmill is the jewel in the crown. It's abandoned, derelict and looks it, but, the good news is that the City has just purchased this prime, waterfront site and it will be redeveloped. If done well, it will be a gamechanger. It may take too long for our remaining timeframe, but, having an extended waterfront walking path would be something we'd really enjoy. At the very least, we'll watch the changes happening with interest. Following photo reprinted from city-port-alberni-redevelopment-plans-somass-lands.

The City and much of the surrounding area is dominated by Mt. Arrowsmith. Often shrouded in cloud, we didn't realize it even existed until all-of-a-sudden, one day, there it was in all its glory. We now enjoy seeing it in all its moods.

Taken from the boat, here's a view at sunrise:

and this one is with the first snow cover, seen in October.

We're looking forward to continuing our exploration of this amazing location over the next few years. Now, as to that "ultimate fishing town" label, we can't vouch for that as we don't fish, but, the winner of the 2021 salmon derby was a whopping 31 lb. (14 kg.) salmon. The strange thing is, there isn't a fish market anywhere in the town (that we've found) to buy any of the catch....

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