Friday, 12 May 2017

Here she is, our new (to us) boat!


We are very pleased to be able to announce that we have purchased another boat! After being without a boat for fourteen months (we sold old Gjoa in January 2016) we were beginning to despair of  finding anything suitable ever again. Please welcome a new Gjoa (the boat formerly known as Momo-Sailing and most recently, Momo-Saruwa). Strangely, it is another German designed and built boat, just like old Gjoa.


We knew we wanted an aluminium hull, preferably unpainted and were not willing to compromise on that. We had toyed with the idea of buying a catamaran and even went so far as to put an offer on one. Aluminium catamarans are few and far between (or horrifically expensive) and we had some reservations about their handling and ocean-crossing capabilities, so, we started looking at monohulls again. As they say, sometimes the 'devil you know' is the best choice. We had our eye on a couple, but, frankly, they were old, needed work and were rather ordinary. We were heads down into our campervan conversion when something interesting came up and caught our attention. We read the listing avidly until we came to the part about its bilge keels (two small keels) and we were no longer interested. The only bilge-keeled boats we'd ever seen were in the UK, usually sitting forlornly askew in the middle of a tidal mud flat. They had a reputation as rather 'slow pigs' and we didn't want anything to do with one. We decided to keep looking.


A couple of weeks later, I was browsing again and had a closer look at the listing. As we studied it we realized that, other than two keels, this boat had just about everything else on our list of desired attributes. We decided to do a bit of research into twin keels, could they really be so bad? A couple of papers we read convinced us that maybe twin keels weren't so bad after all and actually were even possibly better than single keel boats in a number of ways. For the interested, here is a link to one convincing piece on the 'advantages of twin keels'.

http://www.brayyachtdesign.bc.ca/article_twinkeels.html

Higher sailing speeds were an attractive advantage and this seems to be borne out by a survey done on Momo-Saruwa which indicated sailing speeds of  7-8 knots in 18 knots of wind. We'll believe it when we see it, but, if true, it will be a nice plus. It's interesting that maybe we've ended up with something that's not a catamaran, but, not a traditional monohull either, something almost between the two. We should have higher sailing speeds, a shoal draft (only 1.55 m)  and the ability to take the ground like a catamaran, but, with the solid construction, good tracking capability and righting ability of a monohull.


As mentioned in our last post, we had to travel to Langkawi, Malysia in order to view the boat and meet the Swiss owners who were leaving in a few days to return home. The boat lived up to its pictures. The forecabin was built just like on old Gjoa, with sleeping accommodation for two people and storage for an army.


The aft cabin (centre cockpit) was reached by a passage that had limited headroom, but, opened up nicely. 


We paid top dollar for the boat, but, were able to rationalize this based on all the new equipment onboard. Hopefully, our maintenance bills should be fairly low for the first few years anyway. There is a brand-new engine and gearbox, Yanmar 75hp 4JH4G-TBE (only ten hours on it!), new 600ah house bank batteries, a new Panda Fischer 8kva generator installed in 2015, new electronics 2015, full insulation (so important, but, impossible to retrofit well in a boat), diesel heater and a full array of creature comforts which we've never had before. With added comforts, though, comes increased complexity and maintenance. Over time, we may try to simplify the boat, but, for right now, we're willing to put the work into learning and maintaining a boat with 12v, 24v and 240v electrical systems along with the aforementioned huge generator that powers an electric cooktop/oven/microwave, 70 lph watermaker, washing machine, hot water, pressurized water, a shower, freezer, fridge, twin autopilots, bow thruster and many other things. The learning curve will be very steep. There is solar and wind power, but, their input is minimal. Tankage is great, 1110 litres diesel. Some of the equipment choices are not what we would have chosen and we'll either get used to them or replace over time.


The boat is a 2001 Reinke 13m Special, designed by German naval architect Kurt Reinke and professionally-built at Rehberger yachts in Bremen, Germany with interior finishing done at Friendship, Switzerland. She is hull number 15, hopefully all the design kinks were worked out in numbers 1-14!


She was built in 2001, twelve years newer than our old Gjoa, and we will be the third owners. Both previous owners were Swiss and even though the first owners were thirteen year liveaboards, the boat is in absolutely immaculate condition, still mostly just like new. The Special designation is because she is slightly longer than the original 13m design (13.95m) and slightly wider (3.98m beam) to accommodate the very thick insulation. Different than any other Reinke we've ever seen, this one has a raised saloon table and nav station that provides seated 360 degree visibility, something we also hoped to get with a catamaran and have gotten it in a monohull instead.




The galley is also 'down', our preferred location and has lots of really bright headroom.


There is a 'proper' engine room with easy interior access. A hatch in the cockpit sole lifts up and provides standing headroom access to the engine and generator.


A very solid aluminum hard dodger, integral to the boat, with windshield (and wiper!) covers the helm position for inclement weather. A bimini for the tropics shades the comfortable cockpit and rounds out the design.


Her hull is 10mm, topsides 8mm, 5mm deck and she weighs 15,000 kg. The hull and decks are unpainted (hooray!) with a non-skid paint partially covering the decks. A fully-battened main, twin headsail rig, running backstays, dedicated trysail track, trysail and storm jib complete a large sail inventory. A sugarscoop and swim ladder provide great access to the dinghy and water. There are many ingenious examples of German design onboard, including interior locking mechanisms for the tank fills, interior sliding bars that lock the anchor locker, cockpit locker and hatches and a locking liferaft compartment on the sugarscoop. The deck on top of the aft cabin is a great place to stage a drogue deployment.

I'm sure that the non-sailors out there have their eyes glazed over about now and you're saying 'enough already'! I could go on and on, maybe the pictures will give you some idea. The pros outweighed the cons on this boat and we decided to go for it. I don't think we'll regret it.

Our plans for 2017 will now include less time on the campervan and a trip to get the boat from Malaysia to Australia. We're not sure yet what our timeframes will be. All will be revealed in due course.
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Saturday, 6 May 2017

We were just a couple of days from finishing up the campervan conversion and very much looking forward to spending our first night in what we thought was going to be our Australian home for the next nine months. You can probably guess what happened next. An interesting boat popped up on the internet and instead of enjoying the fruits of our labour, we dashed off to Langkawi, Malaysia to look at the boat. There was some time pressure as the Swiss owners were at the boat, but, were leaving in a few days to go home without plans to return anytime soon. It's always better to be shown a boat by someone really familiar with it. There was also somebody else flying in the following week to have a look. It was a close enough match to our 'wish list' that we decided we just had to go and look at it, or, we might regret it. So, at considerable expense, that's what we did.

Malaysia isn't that far from Australia, but, we had to fly to Langkawi, a duty-free island federal territory of Malaysia, just off the northwest mainland coast. It also meant three flights, Brisbane-Sydney, Sydney-Kuala Lumpur (capital of Malaysia) and then a short hop to Langkawi. The routing was complicated and we ended up with a fourteen hour layover in Kuala Lumpur. We didn't mind as it gave us a day to explore this city, on our first visit to a Muslim country. Most people spoke English, so, it was easy to find out what bus to get on. Once in the city, we hopped on to a tour bus and took a lengthy tour. It was surprising. The city was much more bustling and prosperous-looking than I would have imagined.


The architecture was amazing and represented the blend of cultures in the country.





These are Kuala Lumpur's landmark twin towers, the Petronas building.



The people were interesting to look at as well, including the other tourists. I have no idea why this group is dressed alike, but, their colourful clothing caught my eye.


Even their bus was colourful. All the tour buses have very elaborate draperies at the windows.



Once we reached Langkawi, life became a little more rural.


Rice paddies and intriguing water buffalo were in evidence.



Our hotel looked modern and good from the outside, but, there were a few issues inside. It was probably one of the better places to stay though and we were generally happy with it. The best part, it had air conditioning!


The view out of our window at the back of the hotel was lovely.


One day we saw a group of around a dozen very large monkeys walking along the path behind the hotel. It was all very new and interesting.


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Sunday, 30 April 2017

We picked up our ex-delivery van in Brisbane, returned to Hervey Bay and checked back into the Shelley Beach Motel where we had become quite comfortably settled. We had some doubts about this van, but, everything seemed to work, even the air conditioning (thank goodness, as the temps were still around 35C every day) and we were reasonably pleased with our purchase.

Then, we were faced with an empty square of space that needed filling. Our ideas ranged from just throwing a bed in the back to building a comfortable home. We were somewhat limited by the mid-height roof of the van. In an ideal world, we would have been able to get a high-roof van with an extended wheel base which would have given us a lot more options. As we knew we were not keeping this van for the long-term, we bought what was available, in the shortest time frame possible and decided to do the best we could with it.

BEFORE


AFTER


The reality of our project ambitions and what we had taken on started to set in. We had a little expertise, but, no tools, no place to store supplies and no place to do the work which promised to be hot, noisy and dirty. But, we had to start, so, we did. It was a solid five weeks spent in a twilight zone of incredibly long, hot, dirty, dusty and very frustrating days. We set up shop every morning before dawn in a corner of the public parking lot, down at the boat harbour. We had a little shade in the morning and some in the afternoon, but, on sunny days we had to stop work between 10-3 as we thought we were going to die of heat exhaustion. We were working on black tarmac with a hot, dusty sea breeze continually blowing dirt on us. Between 10-3 we had to load all the supplies, tools and work in progress back in the van and drive up to the local Bunnings (building supply store) to get our daily fill of supplies. A short break for lunch and cold drinks at the motel and then it was back to the job.

Even though the job was horrible to do we are quite proud of what we were able to achieve with dollar store tools and no workshop. Basically, we did the whole thing with a hand saw, a jigsaw, a drill and two clamps. All our cutting was done on the pavement! I'm writing this right now from inside the van and I can say it's very comfortable. The extra time we spent to insulate properly helps to regulate the inside temperature. We can cook on our propane two-burner cooktop.


We have a great little fridge/freezer, tv and led lighting powered solely from our solar panels and batteries, meaning we can stay in free campsites a lot of the time.




The bed is large, very comfortable and during the day converts to a desk/table with bench seating.



Unfortunately, there just wasn't room for a toilet and shower, but, we plan to get a solar shower bag and porta-potti for those times we just can't find a public toilet.

Here are a few more photos of the finished product.



This fibreglass gas storage box, required to get a gas certificate, took two days to install. We had to cut a huge hole through the van in just the right place to match the sidewall profile. It was very tricky.


The day the solar panels went onto the roof was very exciting. To the rear, you can also see the roof hatch we installed which had to have a large, very precise hole cut into the roof.


The new awning-style side window was a nice, functional addition.


Here's a summary of the costs involved (all prices in AUD). We hope to recoup most of this when we sell the van. Our labour was 'free' and isn't included. To get a job like this done professionally is very expensive. Nothing is square in a van and although not quite as bad as a boat, every piece of material has to be shaped to fit and requires a lot of fiddling.

Van
10,000 Purchase (2003 Ford Transit, 175,000km, 5 speed manual, 2.4L turbodiesel)
  1,200 Registration and insurance
     700 Service
-------
11,900

Interior
 2,600  Solar system (professionally installed, 2x150w panels, 2x120Ah batteries, 30A regulator)
 2,500  Supplies and tools
 1,400  Fridge (Waeco CRX110)
 1,000  Finishing touches
    900  Mattresses (foam and covers)
    600  Side window
    500  Counter, cabinets, sink
    440  Cooktop (Smev)
    400  Propane storage box
    350  Propane hookup and compliance certification
     330  Hatch
     200  TV
  -------
  11,220

(11,900 + 11,220) = $23,120

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Friday, 14 April 2017

After contemplating our future for a while it quickly became apparent that we did need to have some kind of a roof over our head. We didn't want to settle in one place. Another boat would have been ideal, but, nothing was catching our fancy. We decided we needed a campervan that we could live on and tour in while we waited for 'the one' to arrive on the boat market. Rentals were out of the question as it would be way too expensive for the long-term. We started searching to buy a campervan. Everything reasonably priced had 3-400,000 km on it! We looked at a few locally and frankly, they were awful. Newer ones were priced sky-high and often had features that wouldn't work for us (like our pet peeve, beds built side-to-side instead of fore/aft and therefore are too short for taller people like us). So, there was nothing for it, a van conversion seemed the only way to go. We found a reasonably priced, ex-delivery van for sale and had to return to Brisbane to get it. We had some hotel points accumulated (I've written about our Starwood Amex card before, it's great) and Brisbane had a Four Points Sheraton, so, we were able to spend three luxurious nights there while getting the van.


Brisbane is the capital of the state of Queensland and is the third most populous city in Australia. It's a river city, situated on the Brisbane River and is a long 15 km from where the river enters the ocean at Moreton Bay. Maybe you've heard of the 'Sunshine Coast' which is just north of Brisbane and the 'Gold Coast' which is just south of Brisbane. Both are very popular tourist areas. By contrast, Brisbane has just a few low-key tourist attractions and functions more as a business and government centre. The city itself is one of the oldest cities in Australia and is known for its distinctive Queenslander architecture which is charming and very unique. The vibe in the city, however, is young, new, modern and bustling.

Unfortunately, it is built on a flood plain, as evident in this picture and regularly experiences flooding, most recently in 2011.


We were able to beat the heat of the day by going on a delightful river trip. Small river ferries regularly ply the waters (love the kangaroo painted on these).


There are some tranquil sections of riverfront.


Then, there are sections like this, that looked like an ant-hill built for people!


 In a nod to London, there is also a South Bank, replete with ferris wheel.


Many lovely garden areas helped to keep the heat at bay. This one had many herbs you were encouraged to pick and taste.


The man-made beach, swimming area and wading fountains are very popular. Built above the river bank, they are right in the centre of town.



Stumbling across these Australian water dragons in the bushes was an 'interesting' experience.


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Saturday, 8 April 2017

I know some of you have been waiting patiently for a new post. Sometimes our life moves so fast and in so many different directions, we can barely keep up with it! So, occasionally, the writing suffers.

We actually arrived in Australia almost two months ago now. So much has happened since then there will be a few interesting posts coming up soon. First, let's back up to the beginning. We flew into Brisbane, about midway up the east coast of Australia.


From there, we immediately made our way up to Hervey (pronounced Harvey) Bay, about four hours north from Brisbane, where we had business with a boat, an aluminium catamaran we'd had our eye on for a while. We spent two weeks running the numbers (it needed a lot of work), dealing with the should we/shouldn't we conundrum and finally decided to put an offer in. Unfortunately, after a long wait, the owner rejected our offer and we were not  willing to increase it. This left us in a bit of a quandary: what to do now? There were no other boats of interest available at the moment.

We decided to hunker down at the Shelly Beach motel in Hervey Bay to decide. We found the motel on booking.com and with a rating of 9.2 (superb) we figured they had to be doing something right. We weren't disappointed.


It's a modest establishment that is owned by two sisters. The units are self-contained, clean, very homey, comfortable and reasonably priced for a longer-term stay. It was also off season which helped with the price. The beautiful, empty beach was just across the street, restaurants and shops a short walk away.


Best of all, we were on the second floor and had a continual sea breeze across our balcony. We needed it. For the first three weeks in Australia daytime temperatures never went below 35C (95F)!(they are still hovering between 30-34C). Every day the white hot sun rose at five, blazed all day until finally setting around six. There was no rain at all and over 90% of the state of Queensland was in official drought status. The ground was scorched, everything crispy dry and desiccated. After the cool, wet weather we left in NZ, we couldn't handle it and were thoroughly wilted at the end of each day. Even local residents only ventured out for exercise starting at five a.m. and the streets were busy then. We had groups of cyclists passing along the road below and people chatting while jogging and walking on the eighteen km path that runs along the oceanfront. In the middle of the day, only tourists were seen.

As the sun came up birds started arriving. Every morning a large flock of incredibly noisy, fast-flying, colourful parakeets massed in the trees. What a sight. We also had flocks of white cockatoos. They are very pretty birds, but, have an awful squawk.


The birds on the lawn at the back of the motel were also gorgeous.


The long esplanade includes a nice pier at Urangan and a boat harbour. They made a good walking destination in the evening.


The long commercial strip has many restaurants and hotels. The main attractions in the area are Fraser  Island, a large island just offshore which has a tropical rain forest growing on sand, freshwater lakes and many native dingoes (wild, dog-like creatures). The thought of walking through a hot rainforest and on scorching hot sand in 35C degree heat didn't appeal to us, so, we left a visit for another time.

The other attraction is humpback whales which congregate in the bay with their young. They don't just migrate by, they hang around for a while and apparently the viewing opportunities are spectacular. Unfortunately, the whale season doesn't start until August, so, we were too early for that as well. We've made a point of coming back later in the year to see them.

All in all, it was a good spot to sit for a while and contemplate next steps. Viewing interesting new wildlife, like this spectacular pelican cruising around the boat harbour, was an added bonus.


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