This year, thirteen yachts (that we know of), are attempting the North West Passage east to west. There are also a couple of boats doing the west to east route. Two dropped out before getting to the Arctic, three others have decided to return to either Newfoundland or Greenland in the last couple of days. There are eight of us still hoping to get through. It's not looking that good right now, not good at all. Today, August 17, Peel Sound is still fast top-to-bottom with 9/10 ice with no imminent signs of breakup. Prince Regent was looking the same although just yesterday there are signs the top end is getting some movement. We are still in Arctic Bay, a safe ice-free harbour, but, we're the only boat left here now. All the others are waiting in different locations. We think we may try moving out in a couple of days into either the top end of Regent, or, back across to the north side of Lancaster Sound which is now totally ice-free. It's a waiting game now, some boats have crew that need to get off which may mean turning back soon and a few others don't want to wait beyond the end of August as that would mean they are unable to get around Alaska by mid-September which is really the last chance before it closes up for the winter. We plan to wait until the end of August. If we can get through then we may stop in Cambridge Bay instead of our original plans for Tuk/Inuvik. If we don't get through there aren't many options other than returning to Greenland/Newfoundland (not a minor undertaking), or, overwintering in Arctic Bay.
I suppose some, us included, have been seduced by reading reports and blogs which indicated there'd be a good chance to get through. Looking at ice reports for the same date over the last three years show a marked difference. In the 2011/12 seasons you could have basically driven right through barely seeing any ice whatsoever. That's definitely not the case this year. Last year the boats got through on August 23, just six days from now, highly unlikely for us.
There seems to be a general resurgence of the romantic notions about the Passage that started with the early explorers and of course, the British obsession and fascination with the route in the early 1800's. At that time, Parliament was offering cash prizes to those going the farthest north, farthest west and anybody who got through all the way from east to west. After the Franklin expedition debacle the interest waned, but, has now seemed to have picked up again with less ice and more accessibility to the region.
Somebody from another NWP boat we met in Nuuk mentioned that it was starting to feel a bit like we've all joined the circus. Given some of the current expedition ideas maybe he was right. There are people now trying to not only do the North West Passage, but, also the North East Passage (across the top of Russia) and all in one season. It's been done, but, must have been very difficult. There are people rowing it, people freezing in and drifting with it and one plan is in the works for a snorkel relay through! That one we found hard to believe until we met a Canadian skipper (originally from Bracebridge of all places) in Nuuk who confirmed that his charter boat was currently doing a feasibility study for that very expedition. The study wasn't going very well, so, it remains to be seen whether it will happen.
Also this year, there is yet another Franklin search expedition to try and solve that mystery. There is also a Norwegian effort to repatriate the remains of the 'Maud'. This was the ship built in Norway for Roald Amundsen's attempt on the North Pole (he was already first to the South Pole and first through the North West Passage). Maud was sunk on her moorings in Cambridge Bay. We met the seven-strong crew aboard the 'Tandberg Polar', the boat that will attempt to raise the Maud, in Aasiat Greenland. Tandberg Polar is a tug-style boat with a very large submersible barge lashed to its side. The barge will be lowered, the Maud put on top and then be lifted to the surface when, if all goes well, it will be returned to Norway next year for display in Oslo. Tandberg Polar was due to leave Aasiat right after us. With the barge attached, they are only going to be able travel at five knots, so, it will be a slow journey for them (almost as slow as us). I don't envy the skipper trying to move that load across Baffin Bay and through the ice.
-----
Arctic Bay 17/8/2014 12:00 73°02.0'N 085°08.8'W
No comments:
Post a Comment