MV Gjoa: A Whale Shark Swim

We're in Oz for a while, back aboard Gjoa at the boatyard in Carnarvon. We were quickly able to get the various jobs done to enable a quick refloating and had hoped to have splashed-down and been on our way to Perth by now. Unfortunately, we've become prisoners, doing hard time 'on the hard' and won't be going back in anytime soon! We were very grateful to have found a boatyard here that could haul us out when we really needed it. However, it's a small operation and there are two problems. The owner has just had a knee replacement and cannot operate the loader. Also, there's only one 'jinker' (flat bed trailer) onsite. This is what we need to use to get back into the water. It is currently occupied with a catamaran sitting on it waiting for new engines. They are currently three weeks behind schedule and we have to wait for them to be done and back in before we can have our turn. So, we wait.

Although we still have lots more boat jobs to occupy us while we wait, the critical ones have been done. This allowed us to take advantage of the lovely 'winter' weather here now (lots of sun, low humidity, little wind and 'cooler' temps i.e. in the 20's) to enjoy two days away from the boat. We headed north, back to Exmouth, where the whale shark season is just starting. We had been disappointed to be in Exmouth at the wrong time of year when we spent a few weeks there last October, for either humpbacks, or, whale sharks, both of which congregate there in great numbers. So, we jumped at the opportunity to take a break with an organized Whale Shark swim on the
Ningaloo Reef, a World Heritage Site.

There are nine companies operating 'swims' in the area. We chose Ningaloo Discovery because they were the only ones that operate a sailing catamaran. It's an expensive day trip, but, given the level of infrastructure and staff required you can see where the money goes. First, they have to find the whale sharks (chartered aircraft spotters are used), then, the boat crew works to line up the boat with a shark (a spotter has to be in the water to see which way it's going and then hand signals are given back to the boat). Then two groups of ten snorkellers (only ten are allowed into the water on each swim) have to be alternated quickly into and out of the water and going in the right direction to avoid getting in the shark's way. There's also a professional photographer in the water. It was quite the experience, but, well managed and of course being up close and personal with these massive creatures was really something very special.

It's a bit daunting on the first swim, we did six in total, when the shark looks like it's coming right for you with that huge mouth. Luckily, they filter-feed almost exclusively on plankton and not on humans!

I (in the yellow mask) was surprised at how easily I could keep up with the shark (they're very slow swimmers and just seem to glide effortlessly through the water). On about the fourth swim, it seemed quite easy to stay alongside. The first few swims were spent trying to stay away from other swimmers and their bubbles, but, by the last swim, the sixth, most swimmers had dropped out and it felt like it was just me and the fish, amazing.

It was fascinating to watch the entourage that came along with the shark, both underneath, presumed cleaner fish, or, maybe they were just enjoying the draft and the smaller ones both around the head and even inside the gaping mouth!

After doing a morning snorkel, then, six swims with the sharks, we were all ravenous. There was lots of great food served and then we had some other activities to keep us entertained. The cargo net diving was fun. This is Laura, one of the talented marine biologists onboard.