Bora Bora

We were stuck in the boatyard in Ra'iatea for almost four weeks waiting for our new gearbox. We'd

been able to locate one in Australia (we'd highly recommend Minard's Diesel, with whom we've done business before, as a source for Yanmar parts in the South Pacific). It arrived, by air, in just two days to Papeete! We were optimistic we'd soon be back on our way to Bora Bora again. Then, the excruciating waiting began. There was a significant delay caused by the lack of an official stamp on the original Customs declaration we submitted on arrival. Then, there were two public holidays and the fact that it had to come from Tahiti to Ra'aitea on the local supply ship which only runs two days a week. In the end, it did arrive and was installed in just two hours. In the meantime, we'd been looking at this lovely view of Bora Bora, just twenty miles away and tantalisingly close. Finally, we were able to head over.

It was another windless day which was ok as we wanted to exercise the new gearbox anyway and the passage was uneventful. Just before we left we read that anchoring is now illegal in Bora Bora! Glad we found this out as we had a nice little route planned with a number of anchorages on it. Our plans now had to change. Our visitor's visa clock was ticking so we thought we'd just pick up a mooring in front of the Bora Bora Yacht Club for a couple of days and book onto a lagoon/snorkel tour, so, we'd at least be able to see the place. We picked up a mooring, then, there was confusion around who we were supposed to pay. We thought we'd paid already (to the yacht club). Then, the moorings manager showed up and demanded payment. We worked out a satisfactory compromise. The cost per night was about $30 USD, not insignificant as last month it used to be free. They've changed the rules

but haven't stepped up to the plate with infrastructure replacement as there are not enough marina berths, or, moorings to match the number of boats. Also, picking up an unknown mooring is always dicey and not without risk if it's in poor condition. It can lead to losing your boat. It almost happened

to somebody a few months ago in the very mooring field we were now in. The moorings have been

upgraded since then, but, an American family had their large catamaran on a mooring and then went

out for dinner. Upon their return, their boat was gone! It was dark and blowy and a couple of 

yachties went out on dinghies to try and find it. It had gone across the lagoon about five miles and collided with a couple of over-water bungalows in a very luxe resort. The bungalow decks were smashed quite badly. The catamaran was wedged underneath, but, luckily the point of impact was between a chainplate and bulkhead, so, although there was a huge hole in the boat it was repairable. There is some dramatic video online, the boat's name is Archer. It was getting repaired in the same boatyard we were stuck in in Ra'aitea and it looked like they were going to be able make it almost as good as new.

We'd thought we'd absolutely hate Bora Bora as it has a reputation for being overcrowded, commercial and very expensive, but, were very pleasantly surprised by some of its natural qualities. It's a small place, only 5.5 miles long and 2.5 miles wide. The population is about 10,550. Its volcanic past is undeniable.

The island is totally dominated by ten luxury resorts. The resort bungalows were definitely larger here, with prices to match (they start around $800 USD per night and can run well into the thousands).

Most resorts are tastefully done, but, the sheer number is overwhelming. In places it looked like a bungalow city. It felt a bit like being in a theme park. 

Even some of the 'attractions' had a theme-park feel, like Bloody Mary's restaurant, but, of course we had lunch there anyway. The floors are sand and the seating is tree stumps, the food, as to be expected, was ok, not great. 

In spite of our misgivings and some egregious examples of rampant tourism, our two day whirlwind tour was redeemed when went on a four hour lagoon/snorkel tour (we went with Reef Discovery and can highly recommend them). In keeping with the theme park feel, the lagoon almost looks artificial, it is so unreal. It starts off like many of the others, with dark blue, deeper water leading to striations

of lighter colours. Every shade of blue you can imagine was represented: cobalt, indigo, teal, sapphire, turquoise, aquamarine and what I can only describe as 'electric blue'. It was a colour so vivid and intense, that, when the light was right, it practically glowed. We entered the east lagoon and it was incredible. It looked like a gigantic swimming pool, a miles-long pool of shallow, totally clear water. This picture really doesn't do it justice.

And the snorkeling, wow! We've scuba-dived the Caribbean and snorkeled other places, but, have never seen sights like we saw here. We stopped at four locations, one was a fabulous, fully alive coral

garden, another a friendly 'aquarium' of reef fish. In another spot we were able to float along with two very large manta rays who were being cleaned by wrasse, but, the piece de resistance, were the eagle rays. From the surface it just looked like a few black blobs. Mask in the water revealed an incredible sight, at least one hundred of these creatures, all swimming in a tight formation, like a squadron of slow-moving fighter jets. They must have numbered maybe five deep and twenty across. We just swam along with them at a lazy pace, only a few feet above them.Their backs were light brown and spotted, the 'wings' about a metre across. Occasionally, one would break formation to do a leisurely back roll and we could see their white underside.

It was over all too soon and right after our tour, we headed out for Rangiroa, about 250 miles away. We didn't get far before we had some issues with our gear cable and throttle, so, decided to head back, again, to Ra'iatea to have the mechanic check things out.