We recently spent a year at Wharf Street Marina, in Victoria (Sept. 2020 - Sept. 2021) living on our sailboat Gjoa. On arriving in British Columbia, we soon learned that being a 'liveaboard' has very negative connotations here due to a derelict boat problem along with the often derelict people that live aboard them. The boats never leave the dock, or, anchor and they tend to just rot in place leaving unpaid bills and a disposal headache for marinas and municipalities. Unfortunately, international cruising sailors are also lumped in with this group. Most marinas have just put their head in the sand and made intractable "no liveaboard" policies rather than deal with the issue. So, it was a breath of fresh air when cruising friends told us about the progressive policies of the GVHA (Greater Victoria Harbour Authority). They have no trouble filling their marinas in the summer season, but, when winter comes, the berths often sit empty. A winter liveaboard program is offered to cruising boats. There's usually a wait list and both marina and personal references are required to even get onto the list. We were accepted at the last minute and heaved a sigh of relief that we had somewhere to go. Rates were reasonable and the usual toilet/shower/laundry facilities were provided and very nice they were too. The rates also included a weekly visit from the sewage pumpout boat. I'm sure at this point most non-sailors are thinking this is "too much information", but, this small thing makes a huge difference in life aboard. Victoria is the only place we've been that offers this welcome service.
The location was also superb and has to be one of the premier city centre marina locations in North America. We thoroughly enjoyed our year there and fell in love with Victoria in the process. There were always things happening in the inner harbour: demonstrations in front of the Legislature (Victoria is the provincial capital of BC), street entertainers, patio dining, float planes that seemed to come and go endlessly and many interesting boats, including the unique water taxis. They have regular stops around the harbour and one day, when I went to check out music being played over a loudspeaker, I came across them doing a unique, synchronized "boat ballet" to classical music! Fun to watch and requires a great deal of skill.
We also enjoyed the wildlife in the harbour. There were often seals and mink around the boat. In the spring a family of sea otters with five young entertained us with their antics. The otters were a mixed blessing. They were often up on and sometimes in the boats, particularly those with swim platforms. They would bring their crab catches up on deck to eat and leave a mess of bones and other deposits behind. This grimacing otter has a crab between its paws and is crunching a mouthful!
There was only one dump of snow all winter and it only lasted a few days. Then, we were back to the usual balmy temperatures in this area.
We enjoyed walking the many neighbourhoods, especially the heritage areas. This is the Emily Carr museum in the very appealing James Bay area.
Oak Bay is another lovely neighbourhood. Deer are considered garden pests here, but, it was fantastic to see them nonetheless.
There were many superb in-town walks: along the Dallas Road seafront, out along the breakwater seawall and through expensive, oceanfront neighbourhoods with fabulous water and mountain views.
Going further afield we must have walked the whole waterfront from Sidney to Sooke. We often took the bus out of town and walked back in.
We did consider setting up our intended home base in Victoria, but, as much we loved it there, it was still too urban for us and we decided that being further afield would suit us better. However, we intend to visit often in future. Maybe we'll stay at the Empress, lovely any time of the year.
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