Sunday 27 February 2022

A Big White getaway

This second winter on a boat in BC hasn't been quite as easy as our first winter. Last year, in Victoria, we had just one dump of wet snow in February that was completely gone in about three days. This year, in Port Alberni, there was a nasty, almost record-setting weeks-long cold spell over the Christmas period with lots of ice and snow. Temperatures hit -16C, the record December low for Port Alberni is -17.4C, set in 1950 (average low is +0.4C), so, very close to the all-time record. The boat is not insulated, so, we could definitely feel a chill right through the thin fibreglass hull, although it wasn't that bad with our diesel stove, an electric top-up space heater and our quality down duvets. A skin of ice formed around the boat. It was thin so there was no risk to the boat and it was fun to watch the ducks slipping and sliding trying to figure it out. It was when the pipes froze in the marina buildings that we started to wonder how bad it would get. We had no water for over two weeks as they had to wait for a thaw before they could fix things. The weather slowly improved through January and we made a quick trip to Vancouver (only four hours by road/ferry) to combine a few nights hotel stay with shopping for the upcoming house build. It was a nice break that came with an unlikely Vancouver snow storm, bad weather seemed to be following us! At least the water stayed on in the hotel.

February arrived, nothing was happening with the house build, weather was warmer, but, damp, foggy days were the norm and we needed a break. A warm-weather destination appealed, but, with covid restrictions still in place, we didn't want to leave the country. We decided, after a six year absence, to go downhill skiing!

We chose Big White resort in Kelowna BC. We booked just a couple of days ahead and were surprised to see there was still some availability and reasonable accommodation prices (at the budget end anyway). Of course, accommodation is only a small part of a ski vacation cost. Equipment rentals and lift tickets tripled the accommodation cost. 

We had doubts that we'd have the stamina to get our money's worth from the lift tickets, but, it was a great trip. Our aging legs and knees held up ok and it felt amazing to be outdoors in a beautiful mountain environment. The weather was perfect: warm, brilliantly sunny with lots of blinding-white snow. The base was 167 cm which the locals said was less than half what it is normally. There seemed plenty to us, enough to make a good cushion after we took a few tumbles due to our rusty technique. By the third day we were improving, but, unfortunately it was time to leave. We enjoyed it so much we have plans to return next year. 

We liked Big White a lot. Our room in the centre of the village had a sunny aspect, a great mountain view and a lift about 30m from the front door. 

It was also a short stroll to some very nice restaurants.

The village is not too big, mostly traffic-free and is all ski-in/ski-out. There were no long lift lines. The terrain has something for all skiers. After our long absence from skiing, we felt like beginners again, but, there were plenty of green (easy) runs to keep us occupied. Unlike other resorts where the easy runs are only at lower elevations, at Big White, you can get all the way to the summit on multiple long, easy runs. 

An added bonus to our time away was that on our return to the Island it seemed like spring had sprung in our brief absence. When we left, Mt. Arrowsmith was still snow-covered. On our return there was absolutely no snow anywhere at street level. Things looked very green with nascent buds on the trees. Port Alberni greeted us with spring-like temperatures, +11C and clear sunshine. Not bad for mid-February in Canada!



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