Passage to Perth

We thought we were never going to get back into the water at Carnarvon. After what felt like a very long wait, we were finally dropped back in on June 27 and we have just arrived at Two Rocks, a northern suburb of Perth, on July 11. Two Rocks is a small community which is currently being redeveloped. A huge housing subdivision is being built along with a rebuild of the marina. Its main claim to fame right now is this rather tacky statue of King Neptune which dominates the seafront.

There is another smaller version at Neptune's Cafe overlooking the attractive waterfront area. In this picture you can just see Gjoa behind Neptune's head (burgundy sail cover).

It was only about five hundred miles, 4-5 days, to Perth, but, it doesn't matter whether it's a five, or fifty, day passage, the amount of preparation to go to sea is the same. In addition to all the usual departure preparations, Gjoa had been sitting on the hard for seven months and we'd made a lot of changes, so, there was a bit more effort required than normal. The shaft had been out to install a new cutless bearing, replace anodes and install our Variprop feathering propellor that we had sent off to Germany for servicing and carried back in our luggage. All the sails, including the newly refurbished main, were off and had to be bent on. Bilge pumps needed testing. Electronics needed to be reinstalled and tested. A new Racor fuel filtering system had been installed. The hydraulic steering pump and cylinder had been out for servicing and now were reinstalled. The nav lights and a deck leak had been fixed. Would it all ever work together again?

It didn't go that smoothly. First, the engine wouldn't start. After trying everything we could think of, we had to get a mechanic in, who found a stuck open fuel actuator. A deft movement with a screwdriver and it started like a charm. It's just one of those things that we don't know how it happened and it will probably never happen again. We'd also done so much work on the steering system that we were a bit nervous if we'd put everything back together properly. We wanted to make sure that our emergency tiller worked in case we had no steering. This turned into a full day job as the bolt on its deck cap was seized and then broke necessitating a major excavation.

We tested forward and reverse gear only to find, as we had suspected, that they were reversed. We had to make our way over to the mooring very slowly and carefully. Once tied up, we switched the gear cable over to the other side and it was fixed. This had become a problem when the new engine was installed by the previous owner. The old Volvo required a left-handed prop. The new Yanmar requires a right-handed prop. They took a shortcut and didn't change the prop, just swapped the cable over. So, effectively, we had been driving 'forward' with the transmission, shaft and prop in reverse and vice-versa. When we sent the prop to Germany, they were able to adjust the pitch and change from left to right-handed. Now everything is moving in the same direction and we found a noticeable increase in forward power once underway.

We were almost ready and the weather was looking fantastic. First day when we had to cross Shark Bay was supposed to be a South wind, followed by four days of East 20. This was as good as it would ever get. As usual though, the forecast was just that, a forecast. The reality was much different. We left Carnarvon straight into 25-30 knots from the SW, the direction we needed to go in. It was rough and we were corkscrewing around, it was really miserable. We hadn't had time to get our sealegs and I was feeling sick. We hadn't sailed in seven months and wanted a gentle reintroduction, but, it wasn't to be. We were questioning our sanity.

But then, then, after two days, things flattened out, the wind did go East for most of the time and it was great! The days looked like this.

And the nights like this.

We saw dozens of whales, spouting and surfacing all around us, heading north to their calving grounds. We sailed over half the passage and it was very good, a mostly effortless 5- 7 knots. Traffic was very light overnight, not even any fishing boats and the stars were stupendous. We never heard anybody on the vhf except for one night at 3 a.m. when a voice boomed out into the silence: "what are you doing! turn on your lights!". Panic ensued, but, there was nobody in sight, or, on the radar, so who knows what that was all about, but, it had nothing to do with us!

It took five days to do the five hundred or so miles. The marina was being demolished, so, we had to immediately come out onto the hard as there was nowhere to stay in the water.

 As we won't be sailing again until December, Gjoa will only have been in the water for two weeks and sailed for five days in 2018. Let's hope 2019 will have a better return for all our efforts.

This is our new view from Gjoa's forward deck, not too shabby!

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A Whale Shark Swim

We're in Oz for a while, back aboard Gjoa at the boatyard in Carnarvon. We were quickly able to get the various jobs done to enable a quick refloating and had hoped to have splashed-down and been on our way to Perth by now. Unfortunately, we've become prisoners, doing hard time 'on the hard' and won't be going back in anytime soon! We were very grateful to have found a boatyard here that could haul us out when we really needed it. However, it's a small operation and there are two problems. The owner has just had a knee replacement and cannot operate the loader. Also, there's only one 'jinker' (flat bed trailer) onsite. This is what we need to use to get back into the water. It is currently occupied with a catamaran sitting on it waiting for new engines. They are currently three weeks behind schedule and we have to wait for them to be done and back in before we can have our turn. So, we wait.

Although we still have lots more boat jobs to occupy us while we wait, the critical ones have been done. This allowed us to take advantage of the lovely 'winter' weather here now (lots of sun, low humidity, little wind and 'cooler' temps i.e. in the 20's) to enjoy two days away from the boat. We headed north, back to Exmouth, where the whale shark season is just starting. We had been disappointed to be in Exmouth at the wrong time of year when we spent a few weeks there last October, for either humpbacks, or, whale sharks, both of which congregate there in great numbers. So, we jumped at the opportunity to take a break with an organized Whale Shark swim on the
Ningaloo Reef, a World Heritage Site.

There are nine companies operating 'swims' in the area. We chose Ningaloo Discovery because they were the only ones that operate a sailing catamaran. It's an expensive day trip, but, given the level of infrastructure and staff required you can see where the money goes. First, they have to find the whale sharks (chartered aircraft spotters are used), then, the boat crew works to line up the boat with a shark (a spotter has to be in the water to see which way it's going and then hand signals are given back to the boat). Then two groups of ten snorkellers (only ten are allowed into the water on each swim) have to be alternated quickly into and out of the water and going in the right direction to avoid getting in the shark's way.  There's also a professional photographer in the water. It was quite the experience, but, well managed and of course being up close and personal with these massive creatures was really something very special.

It's a bit daunting on the first swim, we did six in total, when the shark looks like it's coming right for you with that huge mouth. Luckily, they filter-feed almost exclusively on plankton and not on humans!

I (in the yellow mask) was surprised at how easily I could keep up with the shark (they're very slow swimmers and just seem to glide effortlessly through the water). On about the fourth swim, it seemed quite easy to stay alongside. The first few swims were spent trying to stay away from other swimmers and their bubbles, but, by the last swim, the sixth, most swimmers had dropped out and it felt like it was just me and the fish, amazing.

It was fascinating to watch the entourage that came along with the shark, both underneath, presumed cleaner fish, or, maybe they were just enjoying the draft and the smaller ones both around the head and even inside the gaping mouth!

After doing a morning snorkel, then, six swims with the sharks, we were all ravenous. There was lots of great food served and then we had some other activities to keep us entertained. The cargo net diving was fun. This is Laura, one of the talented marine biologists onboard.

My entry was a little more sedate, but, I got in there nonetheless.

Although we didn't participate in the 'whale shark pose' the smiles say it all. It was a great day out both on and in the water.

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A weekend visit to Manchester

Manchester may not be a dream destination for many, unless you're a football fan, as, of course, it's home to two world-famous teams, Manchester United and Manchester City. We didn't have any interest in visiting the National Football Museum, so, we didn't know what to expect when we ended up there for a weekend away to see very long-standing friends visiting from Canada. They were visiting their son who attended uni in Manchester and has now settled in the city. We hadn't seen him since he was about ten, when he appeared very studious. After receiving multiple degrees in mechanical engineering, he has now made the switch to software engineering, the place to be these days. Having his insider knowledge got us to places we never would have known about, like Heaton Park, a 600 acre municipal park jewel located in the Prestwich suburb of the city. It's the largest municipal park in Europe. After walking the dogs in the park (a 'puggle' pug/beagle and a French bulldog) we walked to a very hidden-away pub, The Church Inn . It didn't seem to have road access, but, I'm sure it must. Not a fancy place, but, we enjoyed a traditional, three-course Sunday roast beef lunch with all the trimmings for only £11.95 including an excellent Sticky Toffee Pudding for afters.
We strolled in the adjacent churchyard after lunch. It was a sunny stroll with bluebells, a babbling brook and some very ancient headstones to look at. It doesn't get much better for a Sunday afternoon.

The next day, we explored Manchester on our own. Like many British cities, it is a blend of very old and very modern architecture. It's the third largest metropolitan economy in England.

This building seemed an improbable shape and it dominated the skyline.

There were also the more reassuring shapes of old buildings as well. We got this photo early in the morning, before this pub was packed to overflowing with drinkers enjoying the sunny day.

It was another gorgeous blue-sky and spring blossom day.

This restaurant's floral doorway turned out to be made of plastic flowers, but, it was so realistic I had to get really close to tell, it was lovely and very inviting.

On our day tour, there were two things that really appealed to us. First, was the Castlefield area of the city (not the new 'docks' area which gets all the hype), but, the area which has the old canals and docks. Did you know you can get from Manchester to the Irish sea via the Manchester Ship Canal.  Today, there are commercial cruises available that follow this historic route including through the Barton Swing Aqueduct, another Victorian feat of engineering, it's the only one in the world. Narrowboats and broad-beam barges cross over the top, large vessels pass underneath.

There were many places along the canal to get out of the noon sun and admire more traditional architecture.

We ended up at one of the tram stations with another picturesque view.

Hopping the electric tram (reminiscent of Toronto streetcars) back into the city, we visited the other highlight of our visit, the interactive Museum of Science and Industry. Manchester used to be the textiles powerhouse of the world and was known as Cottonopolis. This history was excellently demonstrated with a working factory area showing just how dangerous, noisy and dirty working with cotton had been.

In another building were the old engines and train displays. Some of them were like works of art.

This massive governor on a diesel engine was a sight to behold.

They did have a demonstration diesel engine which they fired up. It was very interesting to really see, in a simple way, how a diesel engine actually works. It required lots of fine-tuning to get it to run properly without exploding its piston!

There were some amazing steam engines there as well. This one was absolutely huge, very long. The wooden wheel had many belt takeoffs on it and it probably ran an entire factory.

All in all, very fascinating and a good couple of days away.

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Gloucester

Gloucester, like Wells, is also a cathedral city and equidistant from Bristol, so, a prime candidate for another day out. What attracted us to it is that it's also a historic port. Looking at its location on the map, you'd never think a port of any consequence was possible, particularly when access is by the very tidal Severn Estuary (second only in tidal height to the Bay of Fundy) and Severn River.

However, when the Gloucester and Sharpness canal opened in 1827 it enabled the largest sailing ships of the time access to the docks and warehouses far inland at Gloucester. The canal was once the broadest and deepest in the world. 26.5 km (15.6 miles) long, 86 1/2 feet wide, 18 feet (5.5 m) deep and could take craft of up to 600 tons. The port still houses the most inland RNLI lifeboat in the United Kingdom.

Today the canal can be used by boats up to 64m in length, 9.6m in beam and 32m in height. On arrival, we weren't aware of these facts and in addition to the expected narrowboats, we were surprised at the size and variety of ships to be seen at the docks, including the tall-masted Sceptre, an America's Cup boat from 1958 (she didn't win).

The historic dock precinct is surrounded by old grain warehouses converted to apartments and other uses. It has been renovated and is now a popular entertainment area with many restaurants and museums surrounding the mooring basins.It looked like there are also a number of workshops doing traditional boat joinery.

The locks are still active, although only used by narrowboats these days.

There were also a few sailboats moored, not as many as we would have expected. Gloucester is probably one of those 'inside knowledge' destinations. It looked like a very well-protected place to overwinter. There were the usual narrowboats moored-up, this one with a sunbather on its roof.

We walked for a distance down the Gloucester & Sharpness Canal.

This lightship looked in good condition (currently operated as some kind of Buddhist centre) and was for sale! Any prospective B&B owners out there? We thought it would make a great, colourful addition to the Bristol waterfront, where a barge is already being used as a floating hotel.

Uptown from the Docks area, the town of Gloucester still has a number of surviving medieval and Tudor period gabled and half-timbered houses although most of the rest of the town wasn't much to speak of.

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Wells, Somerset

We were inspired by the recent warm spring weather to plan a day's outing. When the chosen day arrived, however, it was cold, wet and grey. That didn't prevent our enjoying, very much, a trip to the nearby cathedral city of  Wells, Somerset. Although classed as a city, it's a small place and incredibly historic. It's named for a number of natural wells that bubble up from the ground around the Bishop's Palace and Wells Cathedral. We were lucky to arrive on market day. The arch behind the flower stall is the market square well, which continually flows and runs beneath the shops and down each side of the high street.

The Cathedral and the Bishop's Palace are just a few steps from the market square. Both are walled and the Palace, founded in 1206, is surrounded by a moat complete with bell-ringing swans and a drawbridge.

The gardens were very lush in their spring greenery and colour and you could see the wells bubbling up in natural pools.

Water seemed to be flowing everywhere through various channels although it has to be carefully managed to avoid flooding of the town.

An excellent rear view of the Cathedral was provided from the Palace gardens.

By now, you might be thinking "not another cathedral" as, to be honest, that's what we were thinking as we no longer go out of our way to visit them as there seem to be so many alike. Wells Cathedral, however, was different with a number of unique and interesting things to see. There was incredible sculpture on the outside of the building, one of the largest galleries of medieval sculpture in the world. From the bottom up, it starts with biblical scenes, rising through kings, bishops, apostles and angels with Christ at the top.

It was the interior, though, that really caught our eye. This massive "scissor arch", built to prevent the building from sinking, was not only functional, but, exceedingly beautiful as well.

Wells Cathedral is also home to the second oldest surviving clock in England (Salisbury's is older). It's an astronomical clock from around 1325. It still has the original medieval face. We settled in to wait for the quarter hour when the jousting knights above the clock face would circle past each other. The quarter-jack was beside the clock and much higher up. On the quarter hour it strikes two bells with its hands and two with its heels setting the knights in motion.

On the outer wall is a second clock face of the same clock, driven by the same mechanism. This second clock face has two quarter jacks in the form of knights in armour.

After all this magnificence we weren't finished yet. Just steps away from this clock we found Vicar's Close, which according to wiki, "is claimed to be the oldest purely residential street with original buildings surviving intact in Europe. The Vicar's Hall was completed in 1348 and included a communal dining room, administrative offices and treasury of the Vicars Choral. The houses on either side of the close were built in the 14th and early 15th centuries" as lodgings for the men of the choir. Today, some of the houses are still used by choristers from the Wells Cathedral School.

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